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electronic_component_testing_cheatsheet [2022/02/09 02:33] sausage [Switches (TODO)] |
electronic_component_testing_cheatsheet [2022/02/23 12:46] sausage |
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When doing a repair job, it's nice to have a handy testing cheatsheet for a range of electronic components. So far I haven't found one, so I created my own here which covers everything from very basic fuses and resistors to MOSFETs, even Gas Arrestor Tubes. All using a multimeter and other tools. I've tried to cater for absolute beginners to intermediate hobbyists. | When doing a repair job, it's nice to have a handy testing cheatsheet for a range of electronic components. So far I haven't found one, so I created my own here which covers everything from very basic fuses and resistors to MOSFETs, even Gas Arrestor Tubes. All using a multimeter and other tools. I've tried to cater for absolute beginners to intermediate hobbyists. | ||
- | My favourite tools are the Anmeg AN8009 mutimeter and GM 328 component tester. You can find them both on Aliexpress. | + | My favourite tools are the [[https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=AN8009 | Aneng AN8009 multimeter]] and [[https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=gm328 | GM 328 component tester]]. You can find them both on Aliexpress. |
{{:component-cheatsheet:anmeg-an8009.jpg?direct&200|}}{{:component-cheatsheet:gm328.jpg?direct&300|}} | {{:component-cheatsheet:anmeg-an8009.jpg?direct&200|}}{{:component-cheatsheet:gm328.jpg?direct&300|}} | ||
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An OL reading means ''open line'' or ''broken connection''. No current will pass, so it's a bad resistor. | An OL reading means ''open line'' or ''broken connection''. No current will pass, so it's a bad resistor. | ||
- | An almost 0Ω reading is a short. Of course, there are very low value resistors, for example BROWN BLACK SILVER GOLD, totaling 0.02Ω, so always check the resistor chart to be sure. | + | An almost 0Ω reading is a short. Of course, there are very low value resistors, for example BROWN BLACK SILVER GOLD, totalling 0.02Ω, so always check the resistor chart to be sure. |
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===== Switches ===== | ===== Switches ===== | ||
- | You can never under-rate the testing of a switch. Switches can break: it's continutity can fluctuate. A switch can be ''normally open'' (the most common type) or ''normally closed''. | + | You can never under-rate the testing of a switch. Switches can break: it's continuity can fluctuate. A switch can be ''normally open'' (the most common type) or ''normally closed''. |
{{ :component-cheatsheet:switch-testing.png?direct&400 |}} | {{ :component-cheatsheet:switch-testing.png?direct&400 |}} | ||
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The continuity tester on your multimeter is the mode to use. | The continuity tester on your multimeter is the mode to use. | ||
- | - If it's a normally open switch, ensure there is only continutity when it is pressed. | + | - If it's a normally open switch, ensure there is only continuity when it is pressed. |
- | - If it's a normally closed switch, ensure there only continutity when it is not pressed. | + | - If it's a normally closed switch, ensure there only continuity when it is not pressed. |
- | An example of an interesting switch break [[vulcan_dishlex_milano_dishwasher_repair|in a recent dishwasher repair]]: with a microswitch that would click when pressed... it sounded like it was activated, but unless you pressed it further, there was no continutity. Needed replacing. | + | An example of an interesting switch break [[vulcan_dishlex_milano_dishwasher_repair|in a recent dishwasher repair]]: with a microswitch that would click when pressed... it sounded like it was activated, but unless you pressed it further, there was no continuity. Needed replacing. |
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- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QqWM3pBirzM | - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QqWM3pBirzM | ||
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0OQvuux6CE | - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0OQvuux6CE | ||
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+ | ===== Varistors ===== | ||
+ | |||
+ | Ok, these suckers are tricky to test. They look like a capacitor, or a thermistor, but are nothing like them. Rather than try and explain how to tell them apart, you are better off using this [[http://epicbeardquest.blogspot.com/2015/03/is-that-varistor-or-capacitor.html | excellent identification guide]]. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Varistors do not test like a resistor, so the resistance measurement will show no connection or continuity. | ||
+ | |||
+ | {{ :component-cheatsheet:varistor-testing.png?direct |}} | ||
+ | |||
+ | You can test them like a capacitor using a multimeter or GM-328. Don't expect a value that looks like something on the packaging. Just know if you get a low (pF) range value, you have some confidence that you have a working part. Again, check the guide above to get an appreciation of the expected values. | ||
+ | |||
+ | In my example is a TVR 10561. The 10 is component 10mm wide. The 561 is a 560V tolerant unit. If I mistook the 561 as a 561pF part, it will actually test at around 220pF mark which is roughly half, which lines up with the guide above. | ||
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===== Conclusion ===== | ===== Conclusion ===== | ||
- | This article is likely to expand over time. If this is handy for you, please pass it along to friends and let me know. I love to hear from other repairers. | + | This article is likely to expand over time. If this is handy for you, please pass it along to friends. I love to hear from other repairers, if you spot anything wrong, please let me know. |